Alpamayo Climb – 7/8 Days Expedition

Code: CSCT4D3N
8 DAYS - 7 NIGHTS
Category:
  • Valle de Santa Cruz (1)-convertido-a-1920x1356
  • Valle de Santa cruz
  • Taulliraju 5 (1)-convertido-a-1920×1356
  • Taulliraju_peak-peru-inkaland-treks (1)-convertido-a-1920×1356

The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World – Cordillera Blanca, Peru

At 5,947 m / 19,511 ft, Alpamayo is often called “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”, renowned for its perfect pyramidal shape and steep, fluted ice walls.
Located in the Cordillera Blanca, this legendary peak represents the pinnacle of Andean mountaineering.

The Alpamayo Expedition is a world-class adventure designed for experienced climbers with previous glacier and steep-ice experience (55°–70°).
It combines a stunning trek through the Santa Cruz Valley with a serious, technical ascent on one of the world’s most photogenic peaks.

From its summit, climbers enjoy panoramic views of Quitaraju, Artesonraju, Santa Cruz, and the entire Blanca range — a breathtaking reward for one of the most beautiful climbs on Earth.

Quick Facts Alpamayo Climb

  • Location: Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán National Park
  • Duration: 7–8 Days
  • Summit Elevation: 5,947 m / 19,511 ft
  • Difficulty: D / Technical Ice (55°–70°)
  • Best Season: June – August (dry season)
  • Route: Ferrari Route (optional: French Direct)
  • Start / End: Huaraz → Cashapampa → Alpamayo Base Camp → Huaraz
  • Group Size: Small private groups (1 guide : 2 climbers ratio)

👉 Ideal for experienced climbers seeking a challenging, world-class technical ascent.

📩 Ready for the Challenge?

Climb Alpamayo (5,947 m) with Inkaland Treks — a world-class expedition combining beauty, precision, and adventure. Take on the most photogenic summit in the Andes with our professional, safety-focused mountain team.

Highlights Alpamayo Climb

  • Climb Alpamayo (5,947 m) – “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”
  • Technical ice climbing (55°–70°) on Ferrari or French Direct routes
  • Panoramic views of Quitaraju, Artesonraju, and Santa Cruz
  • Expedition through Santa Cruz Valley & Alpamayo Base Camp
  • Led by UIAGM / IFMGA-certified mountain guides
  • Full expedition logistics: mules, porters, cook, and high-altitude camps
Join Group 2026

Itinerary at a Glance

Day Route Max Elevation Hiking / Climb Time Highlights
1 Huaraz → Cashapampa → Trek to Llamacorral 3,760 m / 12,335 ft 4–5 h Scenic valley approach
2 Llamacorral → Alpamayo Base Camp 4,250 m / 13,944 ft 5 h Enter Santa Cruz Valley
3 Acclimatization Day 4,250 m / 13,944 ft Optional 3–4 h Training & rest
4 Base Camp → Moraine Camp 4,900 m / 16,076 ft 3–4 h Begin alpine approach
5 Moraine Camp → High Camp 5,300 m / 17,388 ft 3–4 h Glacier entry & setup
6 Summit Alpamayo (5,947 m) → Return to High Camp 5,947 m / 19,511 ft 8–10 h Technical ice ascent via Ferrari Route
7 Descent to Base Camp 4,250 m / 13,944 ft 5 h Trek down the valley
8 Base Camp → Cashapampa → Huaraz — 6–7 h total Return to Huaraz

(Duration may vary based on weather and acclimatization.)

1

Day 1 – Huaraz → Cashapampa → Llamacorral (3,760 m)

Private transport from Huaraz (3,050 m) to Cashapampa (2,900 m), where mules and porters await.
Trek through the lower Santa Cruz Valley with views of waterfalls and granite walls before reaching Llamacorral Camp.
Camping: Llamacorral (3,760 m)

2

Day 2 – Llamacorral → Alpamayo Base Camp (4,250 m)

Continue through lush valleys past Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha Lakes, surrounded by the towering peaks of Artesonraju and Quitaraju.
Reach Alpamayo Base Camp, the heart of the expedition.
Camping: Base Camp (4,250 m)

3

Day 3 – Acclimatization Day

Rest and acclimatize at Base Camp. Optional short hike or glacier training with your guide to review rope and ice-climbing techniques.
Camping: Base Camp

4

Day 4 – Base Camp → Moraine Camp (4,900 m)

Climb a steep rocky section with porters carrying group gear.
Establish Moraine Camp, offering stunning sunset views of the Blanca peaks.
Camping: Moraine Camp

5

Day 5 – Moraine Camp → High Camp (5,300 m)

Ascend over mixed terrain and cross the glacier to reach High Camp, located below Alpamayo’s southwest face.
Final preparation for summit day.
Camping: High Camp

6

Day 6 – Summit Alpamayo (5,947 m) → High Camp

Early alpine start (~1:00 AM).
Climb via the Ferrari Route — steep snow and ice slopes (55°–70°) leading to the spectacular summit ridge.
Enjoy panoramic sunrise views over the Cordillera Blanca.
Descend carefully using fixed ropes and anchors to return to High Camp.
Camping: High Camp

7

Day 7 – High Camp → Base Camp

Begin a gradual descent back to Base Camp, enjoying final views of Alpamayo’s flawless pyramid.
Camping: Base Camp

8

Day 8 – Base Camp → Cashapampa → Huaraz

Descend the Santa Cruz Valley for approximately 6 hours to Cashapampa, where private transport returns you to Huaraz.
End of expedition.

 

Departure

📅 Suggested Departures 2026

  • Season: June – August (dry season)
  • Duration: 7 – 8 Days
  • Service: Private or small-group expedition
  • Price: Available upon request (varies by group size & service level)

FAQ

Good to Know

  • What type of climb is Alpamayo?Alpamayo is a technical ice climb involving multiple pitches on steep slopes (55°–70°). It requires experience using ice tools, crampons, and fixed ropes.
  • Who is this expedition for?For experienced climbers with prior ice and glacier experience, comfortable using climbing equipment and moving on exposed terrain. This climb is not suitable for beginners.
  • What route is used?We typically ascend via the Ferrari Route, the classic and most reliable line to the summit. Depending on ice conditions, the French Direct Route may also be chosen.
  • How long does the expedition last?The full expedition usually takes 7–8 days, including approach trek, base camp setup, acclimatization, summit day, and descent.
  • Do I need previous experience?Yes — participants must have prior ice and glacier climbing experience and be confident with rope systems, anchors, and self-belaying techniques.
  • What kind of preparation is required?Excellent physical conditioning, endurance, and altitude acclimatization are essential. Climbers should be capable of long, demanding days at high altitude with a heavy pack.
  • What is the guide-to-client ratio?For maximum safety and efficiency, Inkaland Treks maintains a strict 1:2 guide-to-client ratio for Alpamayo climbs.

Recommended Training & Preparation

Climbing Alpamayo demands a combination of physical strength, endurance, and solid technical skills. Proper training will make your experience more enjoyable and increase your chances of summit success.

Physical Conditioning

  • Cardio: running, cycling, or long hikes 3–4 times per week
  • Strength: leg and core training (lunges, squats, stair climbs)
  • Altitude readiness: previous treks or climbs above 5,000 m recommended

Technical Skills

You should be comfortable with:

  • Ice axe and crampon techniques on slopes up to 60–70°
  • Ascending and descending fixed ropes
  • Glacier travel, rope team movement, and crevasse safety

A short technical refresher course can be arranged in Huaraz before the climb for those wishing to review techniques.

Mental Preparation

Alpamayo is remote and exposed — weather, snow conditions, and patience play a big role. Team spirit, focus, and persistence are key to a successful ascent.

Recommended Equipment

Inkaland Treks provides group equipment such as expedition tents, ropes, and cooking gear. Each participant should bring or rent their personal climbing gear, including:

Climbing Gear

  • Double mountaineering boots
  • Crampons (12 points)
  • Two technical ice axes
  • Harness, helmet, carabiners, slings, ascender & descender
  • Insulated technical gloves (2 pairs minimum)

Clothing

  • Down jacket & insulated pants
  • Waterproof Gore-Tex shell (jacket & pants)
  • Thermal base layers (top & bottom)
  • Fleece or softshell mid-layer
  • Buff, warm hat, glacier sunglasses

Camping & Personal

  • Sleeping bag (–15°C or lower)
  • Headlamp with spare batteries
  • 40–50 L climbing backpack + duffel bag
  • Personal first aid kit, sunscreen, lip balm

INCLUSION

✅ Included

  • Professional UIAGM / IFMGA mountain guide (1 guide per 2 climbers)
  • Private transport Huaraz ↔ Cashapampa
  • Donkeys, muleteers, and porters for expedition gear
  • Cook and all meals during the climb (vegetarian/vegan options)
  • Full camping gear (tents, mats, dining/kitchen/toilet tents)
  • Group climbing gear (ropes, anchors, ice screws, pickets)
  • First Aid Kit, oxygen, oximeter
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park

❌ Not Included

  • Accommodation & meals in Huaraz
  • Personal climbing gear (helmet, harness, crampons, boots, ice axes – rental available)
  • Sleeping bag rental
  • Travel & cancellation insurance (mandatory)
  • Tips for guides and support staff

Related Tours

Price:$450

  • Service: Group Service.
  • Notes: Based on a minimum of 6 participants. / Open departures.
  • Private/Personalizad version available on request.

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